Driving to and through the area is beautiful

I love driving. However, I do NOT love driving in a city, especially one where no two roads are parallel, the signage is vague, and the one-way streets seem to be placed as if they were personally challenging me to a game of chicken. Country Roads, take me home!

Cue the beautiful winding roads of Northern France, where the fields are lined with lush trees and the traffic is sparse. It was almost like we were driving out to The Land in Murray Harbour! Yes, there were some unbelievably narrow roads, and we weren’t always sure we were heading in the right direction, but exactly as the ole cliché says, the journey was part of the destination.

Sure, it helped that we were riding in luxury thanks to our rental from Avis. First time in a Mercedes Benz for us! The views were the real star, though, especially the ever-changing architecture and variety of wildlife. With three wildlife parks and close proximity not only to the Belgium border, but to the Chunnel access to England, a drive through Northern France has unending possibilities amidst its beauty.

Incredible Accomodations

Since we were looking for a relaxing, comfortable weekend away, we splurged a little bit on our accommodations. Normally we go for a cheap AirBnB, but Ocel found some amazing properties through booking.com. Ultimately, we chose Le Domaine des Fagnes in Sains du Nord. Built in the 1800’s, the original chateau has been beautifully updated into a B&B with a lavishly furnished breakfast buffet. Additionally, they have six small cabins only a few years old, each one with a private back yard and personal spa (jacuzzi/hot tub).

It was worth every bit of the €120/night splurge! One of the many benefits of staying in a more rural area is value for money. We had a private cabin to ourselves with a fully equipped kitchen, a colorful and comfortable living room, a lush and romantic bedroom, and of course the incredible jacuzzi under a pergola on the back deck. It was a perfect way to kick back and relax. And since we weren’t spending all of our time out touring around, we were able to soak it all in. (Especially after the stars came out and we discovered the lighting features in the hot tub!)

Of course we enjoyed the private cabin for two, but it was obvious that the property was also very family-friendly. With a play-set out front, bikes to use, a large lawn to roam about, and a variety of animals (real and fake) scattered across the property, there would be plenty to keep kids entertained. Our accomodations are part of the great Gîtes de France® network that guarantees quality across all of their members.

Outdoor Attractions

If you’re going to spend a weekend in the wildlife park region of Northern France, you might as well take advantage of the many outdoor activities nearby. We were in L’Avesnois region, and they had cute printed guidebooks with useful information about many shops, tours, and leisure activities. Although we didn’t want to stray too far from our beautiful accommodations, we did want to check out some of the region’s outdoor offerings. Plus, more opportunity to cruise around in the Benz!

We headed to ValJoly in the small community of Eppe-Sauvage right along the Belgian border. As a tourism destination, ValJoly certainly meets and exceeds expectations for a getaway with beautiful scenery and multiple activities. The large man-made lake offers sailing, motor-boating, canoeing, kayaking, and paddle-boating. There is a large inflatable obstacle course if you feel like challenging yourself and probably going for a dunk or two. 

Rather than risk it all on the obstacle course, we opted for a paddle-boat ride around the lake. A wonderful way to take in the scenery while getting a casual workout (full disclosure: we stopped more than once to give our legs a break). There were many other ways to enjoy nature and the resort, including but not limited to:

• horse-riding paths
• hiking trails
• mini-golf
• an aquarium
• archery
• 4-wheeler tours

Ok, you had me at 4-wheeler! Although we didn’t learn about this option until we were getting ready to leave, we know we’ll be back to explore again.

So close to Belgium!

One of the most wonderful aspects of living in France is the accessibility of travel to other countries. Northern France, and specifically L’Avesnois Wildlife Regional Park, lies closely along the border to Belgium. Without having to pass through customs (thanks to the E.U.), you are always only minutes from a whole ‘nother country. Yes, that’s correct English when you’re from Carleton County.

Following great advice from the friendly lady at ValJoly’s welcome desk, we punched Chimay, Belgium into the GPS and let Ms. Mercedes attempt to guide us to a new country. The beauty of GPS is being able to get where you’re going without really knowing where you’re going. When a road turns into a one-way lane, sure, we’ll go with it. When a one-way lane turns into a straight-up farm road reminiscent of my potato-picking days . . . uhhh . . . recalculating!

Honestly, how did anybody get anywhere before smartphones and GPS? Using Google Maps, Ocel found us a less agricultural route, and within 30 minutes I was on Belgian soil for the very first time. It felt more like passing into a different town than a different country. (A reference for a very small percentage of the internet: “Smile, you are now entering Stickney!”) There were subtle differences, like license plate markings, but it wasn’t until we were in the commune of Chimay that the ancient stonework and rounded architecture let me know I was truly in Belgium.

The commune of Chimay was absolutely beautiful; a charming medieval village built into a hill surrounding the Chateau Chimay, which dates back to the early 1000’s. You could spend the whole day just wandering the sloping cobblestone streets, connected by long brick stairwells that cut a straighter path up and down the hill. As you might expect from any small town in Belgium, lots of cute pubs and welcoming taverns dotted the streets, all of them brimming with jovial folks and full pints.

We visited the Collegiate Church of St. Paul and St. Peter in the heart of the Grand Place of Chimay. With roots back to the 1300s, this church has funerary plaques for some of the most important and famous members of the Chimay nobility. I was taken with the age of the doors and intricately carved door handles, as well as the pristinely preserved colorful artwork in the small chapels lining the walls.

From there we made our way to the castle, which houses the nobility of Chimay to this day. As our lovely guide was welcoming us, he politely excused himself for a moment the assist the Princess of Chimay as she made her way into the Hall of Portraits. I was literally in the presence of royalty! She was incredibly gracious with her time as she sat happily chatting with visitors, not only answering their questions but asking many of her own in return. A class act.

The castle itself, or at least the part we were permitted to tour, was a spectacle of design. Luxe tapestries, hand-carved furniture, gold-leafed frames, shimmery chandeliers . . . it was a visual feast. In the royal theatre we were invited to watch a short film about the history of the chateau. As I listened along to my English headset, I couldn’t help letting my eyes wander around to the private balconies with their rich red velour seats, the family box behind the control booth with its own crystal chandelier, and the painted ceiling with a sculptural metal light installation. Add the grand piano and layered staging, and I think it was one of the most beautiful spaces I’ve ever been in.

Local Artisans

The Avesnois region is filled with farmers, creators, and experiences that highlight the niche and unique offerings of the area. Whether you want to visit a secret garden, watch a glass-blowing demonstration, learn how to throw pottery, or see master wood-turning in action, there is bound to be something to match your interests.

Because Ocel and I are cheese lovers to the max, we decided to pay a little visit to La Ferme du Pont des Loups in Saint Aubin. Since moving to Arras, we have seen, heard about, and most definitely smelled Maroilles cheese on an almost daily basis. While the distinct aroma (odor and stench also work) is quite pungent, the cheese itself is a delicious, creamy treat. Maroilles is one of the oldest kinds of cheese in France, and is designated an AOC protected cheese.

La Ferme du Pont des Loups is a huge, recently updated facility that allows visitors to see every step of the cheese-making process through huge windows into the production lab. Yes, the strong smell seeped into our pores with every moment, but seeing the multi-step operation performed by cheery cheesemakers, who seemed genuinely happy to have an audience, really made us appreciate the final product. We left with three different blocks of the stuff, and devoured almost half of it the moment we returned home. If you can get your hands on some Maroilles, I highly recommend you venture past the initial assault to your nose and sink your teeth into one of the tastiest cheeses on the market.